Most people drive it in under three hours and never look up from the autoroute. That’s fine — the A20 and A40 are fast and easy, and Quebec City is a great reason to hurry. But if you have a free afternoon and any interest in what this corridor actually is, Route 138 on the north shore changes the entire character of the trip.
This guide covers the scenic version: how to leave Montreal on the Chemin du Roy, which stops are worth the time, how each season changes the drive, and how to make the whole thing work whether you have four hours or two days.
At a glance
| Scenic route | Route 138 / Chemin du Roy (north shore) |
| Drive time (no stops) | ~3h 45min |
| Distance | ~280 km (174 miles) |
| Drive time with stops | Half-day to 2 days |
| Highway alternative | A20 (south shore) — 2h 45min |
| Best season for scenery | Late September to mid-October (fall foliage) |
| Minimum recommended time | 5–6 hours for a satisfying scenic drive with 2–3 stops |
North shore or south shore? The decision every driver faces
There are two main roads between Montreal and Quebec City, running either side of the St. Lawrence River. Most GPS apps default to the A20 on the south shore — it’s marginally faster. For scenic driving, the north shore is the better choice.
| North shore — Route 138 / Chemin du Roy | South shore — Route 132 / A20 | |
|---|---|---|
| Character | Heritage villages, river lookouts, New France history | Flatter, more agricultural, quieter |
| Drive time | ~3h 45min without stops | ~2h 45min (A20) |
| Scenic highlights | Trois-Rivières, Cap-Santé, river views near Portneuf | Sorel-Tracy, Drummondville |
| Road type | Mix of Route 138 (village roads, 50–90 km/h) and A40 sections | Mostly autoroute |
| Best for | First-time scenic drivers, history, photography | Speed, straightforward navigation |
| Drawback | Slower through village zones; can feel stop-start | Little to see between cities |
The honest answer on south shore Route 132: It runs right along the river and through dozens of picturesque villages — and locals rate it highly for authenticity. The tradeoff is time: it can add 90 minutes or more over the A20. If you have a full day and want maximum river contact, combine both shores: take Route 138 north-shore on the way to Quebec City, cross via ferry at Lévis or Québec, and return via Route 132.
What is the Chemin du Roy?
The Chemin du Roy — King’s Road — is one of the oldest highways in North America. Built in 1737, it was the first road to connect Montreal to Quebec City and ran along the north shore of the St. Lawrence for its entire length. It was originally built wide enough for two carriages to pass and today follows, closely or exactly, what is now Route 138.
Driving it means passing stone farmhouses, seigneurial manors, and parish churches that were already old when Canada was still a colony. Several stretches still look much as they did in the 18th century, particularly between Berthierville and Trois-Rivières and again in the Portneuf valley near Quebec City.
The scenic route: stop by stop
Leave Montreal via the A40 heading east. After Repentigny, transition onto Route 138 — this is where the autoroute ends and the Chemin du Roy begins. From here to Quebec City, you can stay on Route 138 almost continuously.
Fort Chambly and the Richelieu Valley (~45 min from Montreal)
A short detour south of the main route via Route 112 brings you to Fort Chambly National Historic Site, a remarkably intact 1711 stone fortress built to defend New France from British incursions via the Richelieu River. The setting — a stone keep reflected in a fast-moving river — is striking, and Parks Canada runs good interpretive programming in summer.
The Chambly Canal, finished in 1843, still lifts pleasure boats through nine original locks. Walking the towpath in the afternoon light is one of the better free stops on this entire corridor.
- Time to allow: 1–2 hours
- Cost: ~$9 CAD adult entry for the fort; canal towpath is free
- Best for: History travellers, families with children, photographers
This detour takes you off Route 138, but it’s worth it if you’re not in a hurry. Return to Route 112 east and rejoin the main route.
Trois-Rivières (~1h 30min from Montreal)
Trois-Rivières is the only significant city on the north shore between Montreal and Quebec City, and it rewards a stop more than most drivers expect. Samuel de Champlain established it in 1634 as the second permanent settlement in New France, and the city’s name comes from the three channels where the Saint-Maurice River meets the St. Lawrence.
The Old Town is compact and walkable — cobblestone streets, 18th-century stone buildings, and a riverside promenade. Key stops:
- Boréalis Museum — an interactive museum in a restored pulp and paper mill that tells the story of the industry that defined the city’s identity for a century. One of the better regional museums in Quebec.
- Sanctuaire Notre-Dame-du-Cap — also called the Basilica of Our Lady of the Cape, in nearby Cap-de-la-Madeleine. An imposing neo-Byzantine structure with quiet waterfront gardens. Worth 30 minutes.
- Old Prison of Trois-Rivières — a working prison until 1986, now open for tours including atmospheric nighttime visits.
Trois-Rivières has quietly become one of Quebec’s better eating cities. Poivre Noir has held a serious culinary reputation for years. Le Buck – Pub Gastronomique and several newer spots on the Rue des Forges are worth a lunch stop.
- Time to allow: 1.5–3 hours
- Museum Pass: Available for ~$35 CAD covering 14 museums and galleries in the region
Lanaudière and the Laurentian foothills (~1h from Montreal, north detour)
The Lanaudière region fans north of the main route toward the edge of the Laurentian Mountains. It’s a detour — not on the direct line to Quebec City — but it offers something the riverside corridor doesn’t: genuine wilderness within 90 minutes of Montreal.
La Source Bains Nordiques, near Rawdon, is a Nordic spa built into a forested hillside above a fast-moving river. Outdoor thermal pools, Finnish sauna, eucalyptus steam room, and cold plunge — the kind of place that turns a road trip into a slow trip. Book ahead; it fills on weekends.
To reach it from Route 138, take Route 345 or Route 348 north from Berthierville. Allow at least two hours at the spa itself.
Portneuf Valley and Cap-Santé (~30 min from Quebec City)
The stretch of Route 138 between Portneuf and Cap-Santé is one of the most photogenic on the entire drive. Rolling farmland, long views down to the St. Lawrence, and a series of villages that look largely unchanged from the 19th century.
Cap-Santé — its church spire visible from the river long before you reach it — is a particularly well-preserved village. The church itself dates to 1752 and faces a wide loop of the St. Lawrence. On a clear day, the view east from the village toward Quebec City is worth pulling over for.
Le Baluchon Eco-Resort, off Route 138 near Saint-Paulin, sits on 1,000 acres of forest and farmland by the Rivière du Loup. It’s a full resort with fine dining, spa facilities, and trail access — a reasonable overnight stop for those doing the route over two days.
Île d’Orléans (just east of Quebec City)
Almost every guide to this corridor mentions Île d’Orléans and almost every first-time driver skips it. Don’t.
The island sits in the St. Lawrence five minutes from Quebec City’s centre and has been inhabited continuously since 1648. Six villages, 600 farms, maple-sugar operations, artisan cider producers, and a pastoral landscape that Jacques Cartier called “the Island of Bacchus” when he arrived in 1534 — it’s a different register entirely from anything on the main route.
The circuit of the island is about 67 km and takes 1.5–3 hours depending on stops. The main stops:
- Vignoble de Ste-Pétronille — wine and cider tasting with a view of Montmorency Falls and the Laurentians in the background
- Fromagerie de l’Île d’Orléans — the island’s most famous cheese operation, producing a raw-milk cheddar that has been made here since 1895
- Saint-Jean village — the island’s most striking village streetscape
To reach Île d’Orléans, take the only bridge, just off Route 138 east of Quebec City (Route 368).
- Time to allow: 2–4 hours for a circuit of the island
Montmorency Falls (10 min from Quebec City)
Montmorency Falls, at 83 metres, are 30 metres taller than Niagara. In summer they’re popular; in January, the spray freezes into a cone of ice climbers use for training. A cable car runs to the top of the escarpment, and a suspension bridge crosses the gorge above the falls.
They’re directly on Route 138 heading into Quebec City — there’s no reason to skip them.
- Time to allow: 30–60 minutes
- Cost: Free to view from the base; cable car and parking lot have fees
Quebec City
Old Quebec
The Historic District of Old Quebec is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the only remaining walled city in North America. Divided by the cliff between Upper Town and Lower Town, it splits into two very different walks.
Upper Town is defined by the Plains of Abraham — the battlefield where the Battle of the Plains of Abraham in 1759 determined the future of New France — and by the Fairmont Château Frontenac, the turreted railway hotel that has anchored the Quebec City skyline since 1893. The Château offers a historical walking tour worth booking if you’re staying in the city.
Lower Town is older. Place Royale is the exact site where Samuel de Champlain established Québec City in 1608, making it the birthplace of French civilisation in North America. Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, the stone church at the centre of the square, was built in 1688 and is one of the oldest churches in North America.
Between Upper and Lower Town: the funicular, running since 1879, or the “Breakneck Stairs” (Escalier Casse-Cou) — 17th-century stone steps that are neither breakneck nor particularly risky in summer.
Where to stay
Auberge Saint-Antoine, in the Old Port, is the best-positioned hotel in the city. Built over a 19th-century warehouse on top of a French colonial-era archaeological site, the hotel incorporates artifacts from both eras into its design. It has earned the Relais & Châteaux designation. Its restaurant Chez Muffy uses produce from the hotel’s farm on Île d’Orléans — if you stop there on the way in, you can close the loop.
Hôtel Le Germain Québec, in Upper Town, is the cleaner, more design-forward alternative at a slightly lower price point.
Seasonal guide
The corridor looks and feels completely different across the year. The season you choose affects not just the scenery but the road conditions, crowd levels, and what’s open.
Summer (June–August)
Peak season. All attractions open, restaurant patios running, Île d’Orléans farms selling strawberries and then raspberries. New France Festival in mid-August brings parades, costumes, and period music to Old Quebec — one of the better free events in the city. Crowds are at their highest; book accommodation ahead, especially on weekends.
Fall (September–October)
The best season to drive this route. Fall foliage along the St. Lawrence peaks in late September to mid-October. The Laurentians north of the route turn first; the valley below follows. Lanaudière and the Portneuf valley are particularly good in October. Fewer crowds than summer; the Cider Route through the Montérégie is in full swing.
Winter (November–March)
Carnaval de Québec in mid-February is one of the world’s largest winter festivals — the Ice Hotel (Hôtel de Glace), the mascot Bonhomme, night parades, and outdoor bars that somehow work at -20°C. The drive itself is manageable but requires preparation: winter tires are legally required in Quebec from December 1 to March 15, road conditions can change quickly, and several smaller stops close or reduce hours.
Spring (April–May)
Maple season, especially in the Lanaudière and Mauricie regions. Sugar shacks (cabanes à sucre) offer all-you-can-eat traditional meals — baked beans, pea soup, ham, eggs in maple syrup — and a chance to see the sap boiling process. Spring is the least-visited season and prices reflect it.
Practical driving information
How to get onto Route 138 from Montreal
Take the A40 east from Montreal. After passing Repentigny, stay on Route 138 when the A40 continues — this is the transition to the Chemin du Roy. You’ll know you’re on it when the road narrows and village centres start appearing.
Speed and road character
Route 138 through villages runs at 50 km/h; between villages, 90 km/h. Budget extra time compared to pure highway driving — not because the road is difficult, but because you’ll want to slow down.
EV charging
The corridor is well-served for electric vehicles. Fast-charging stations are available in Drummondville and Trois-Rivières (both on or near the A40 corridor), and in Portneuf approaching Quebec City. CAA-Quebec’s route planner and the PlugShare app both work well for planning stops.
Driving from Montreal to Quebec City in winter
Winter tires are legally required from December 1 to March 15. Check road conditions before departure at Quebec 511 (quebec511.info). Route 138 through village zones can ice up before the main highways are treated — drive accordingly. Gas up in Trois-Rivières if doing the full scenic route; stations are less frequent on the village road sections.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Skipping Île d’Orléans because “it’s a detour.” It’s 10 minutes off Route 138 and is unlike anything else on this corridor. The island adds two to four hours; make time for it.
- Driving straight through Trois-Rivières. The Old Town takes under an hour to walk and is the most historically intact urban stop between the two cities. Get off the A40 and actually go in.
- Using the A20 from the start. The A20 on the south shore is fast and completely featureless. If you wanted a scenic drive, take the A40 to Route 138 from the outset.
- Visiting Montmorency Falls in the dark. The falls are spectacular in any light, but the gorge views and the cable car are much better in daylight. Plan arrival at least 90 minutes before sunset.
- Not booking La Source or Le Baluchon ahead of time. Both the Nordic spa and the eco-resort fill on weekends. Walk-ins are rare, especially in peak fall season.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the scenic route from Montreal to Quebec City take?
Without stops, Route 138 on the north shore takes approximately 3 hours and 45 minutes. With stops at Trois-Rivières, Île d’Orléans, and Montmorency Falls, expect 6 to 8 hours. If you visit Fort Chambly and the Lanaudière area as well, it’s comfortably a full day or an overnight trip.
What is the Chemin du Roy?
The Chemin du Roy (King’s Road) was built in 1737, making it one of the oldest roads in North America. It runs along the north shore of the St. Lawrence from Montreal to Quebec City and today largely follows Route 138. Driving it means passing through heritage villages and along a river that was the lifeline of New France.
Is it better to take the north shore or south shore?
For scenery and history, the north shore (Route 138 / Chemin du Roy) is the stronger choice. It has more to stop at, more visible river contact, and more intact heritage towns. The south shore via Route 132 is also scenic — especially close to the river — but is longer and more winding. For speed, take the A20 on the south shore.
What are the best small towns between Montreal and Quebec City?
On the north shore: Cap-Santé, Deschambault-Grondines, and Saint-Augustin-de-Desmaures are the most picturesque village stops on Route 138. In the Lanaudière region north of the main route: Rawdon and Saint-Paulin are worth detours. On the south shore: Sorel-Tracy and Nicolet are the most interesting stops.
Where should I eat between Montreal and Quebec City?
In Trois-Rivières: Poivre Noir for a serious dinner; Le Buck – Pub Gastronomique for something more casual. On Île d’Orléans: Fromagerie de l’Île d’Orléans for a picnic stop; multiple farm stalls in summer. In Quebec City: Chez Muffy at Auberge Saint-Antoine for farm-to-table cuisine tied directly to Île d’Orléans produce.
What is the best time of year to drive this route?
Late September to mid-October for fall foliage — the Laurentians and the Portneuf valley are at their best. July and August for the most festivals and longest daylight. Mid-February for Carnaval de Québec, if you’re comfortable driving in winter conditions.
Can I do this drive in a day trip from Montreal?
Yes, with a focused itinerary. Leaving Montreal by 8am, you can stop at Trois-Rivières (2 hours), drive the Chemin du Roy through Cap-Santé, spend two hours in Quebec City’s Old Town, and be back in Montreal by 9–10pm. Île d’Orléans and Montmorency Falls are best saved for an overnight trip.
How far is Quebec City from Montreal by train?
The VIA Rail train between Montréal Central and Québec City Gare du Palais takes approximately 3 hours. Several daily departures; no reservation required for economy class though booking ahead guarantees a seat. The train does not follow the scenic north-shore route — it cuts through the interior — so the drive offers views the train cannot.
Route summary
| Fort Chambly (detour south) | 45 km | 1–2 hours |
| Trois-Rivières | 140 km | 1.5–3 hours |
| La Source Bains Nordiques, Rawdon (detour north) | 115 km | 2–3 hours |
| Cap-Santé / Deschambault | 220 km | 30 minutes |
| Île d’Orléans | 260 km | 2–4 hours |
| Montmorency Falls | 270 km | 30–60 minutes |
| Quebec City | 280 km | As long as you have |